Newsletter June 2016

I’ve just looked at last year’s June newsletter and read the words “We’ve had such a ‘stop/start’ spring this year that I, for one, will be very glad if June settles into rather more predictable weather …” Sound familiar?! Perhaps we have to get used to unpredictable being the new predictable.

Of course we have had some superbly warm, sunny, blue-skied days, and I’ve loved watching the plant life burst forth so exuberantly. Now, hopefully, we can look forward to settling into early summer and the delights it brings.

So, what have we got in for you in terms of plant stock? Here’s an edited list of highlights ….

Fruit trees, herbs and vegetables – if you don’t think you have room to grow them in your garden, think again. We still have a few specimen fruit trees which are gown on dwarf- or semi-dwarf root stock, so will never grow more than a few metres in height, meaning that even if you only have a pocket-handkerchief-sized garden, you should be able to squeeze one in. Otherwise, what about a pot of blueberries, strawberries or just some tomatoes and herbs to make your own pasta sauce with? There are a wealth of other vegetable plants in stock now (far too many to name) so there’s no excuse – even those with a shadier garden can pick up our handy list of vegetables that you can grow if you don’t have full sun.
David Austin roses – we have shrubs, climbers, ramblers and now standards too. They have all put on a massive amount of growth in the last few weeks and are starting to look spectacular. I wouldn’t be without the heady evening scent of my ‘Munstead Wood’ shrub rose carefully positioned near the bench at the back of my garden … heaven! What’s also been a revelation for me is how many David Austin roses can thrive in quite shady spots. Last year I planted a Falstaff climbing rose in a spot that only gets about 2 or 3 hours sun a day, and it’s doing splendidly.
Cornus kousa – these glorious large shrubs/small trees never cease to take my breath away. We have ‘China Girl’ and ‘Milky Way’, as well as Chinensis. Their delicate flowers turn from pale leafy green to cream and white as they open out. Just lovely.
Hydrangeas – in a wealth of colours, from the blowsier pink, blue or red varieties, to the more subtle white and green varieties, such as ‘Annabelle’ or ‘Limelight’. These flowering shrubs are particularly useful for shadier gardens, where it can be hard to get colour and ‘oomph’ (I’ve got four of them in my little North facing plot)
Evergreen shrubs – whether you choose an Azalea, Choisya, Pittosporum or something else, they are all in full new growth and looking vibrant.
Summer bedding – a splash of colour for any part of the garden, or in pots and window boxes. As well as the ‘patio packs’, we have lots of individual plants in small pots in a wide range of varieties and colours.
Ornamental trees – come and see the Cercis Canadensis Forest Pansies! They are looking amazing with their large burgundy leaves. We have some lovely silver birches (always a favourite), Gingko, Robinia, Malus, Amelanchier, and much more besides.
Herbaceous perennials – so many to choose from, it’s impossible for me to mention just a few! But if you really twist my arm, I’d have to pick out the Centaurea, Thalictrum, Geraniums (‘Rosanne’ is a ‘must’) and Erigeron. The stock is absolutely top notch, and comes from a small family run business in Kent. It’s no surprise that they also grew plants for no less than 3 winning gardens at Chelsea this year!

Apart from plants, the other things that most of you seem to be asking about or needing at this time of year are pest killers and repellents. As we have so many new customers, I’m inserting here the piece I wrote last year on the subject. Since following this approach, I’ve seen a dramatic reduction in the number of slugs and snails in my garden. So, apologies to those of you who read this last year, but I thought it worth repeating …

Snails and slugs are always a problem in spring and early summer, making it hard for those of us who want to garden as organically as possible to know what to do. This year, I’ve taken a triple pronged approach:

Early on I used ‘slug bait’, which is certified for organic use, even though it kills rather than deters slugs and snails. Using it early in the year slowed the reproduction rate down of the snail and slug population, making the survivors easier to deal with.
I have done all I can to encourage birds into the garden. Not only are they a joy to watch but they help in the war against slimy pests by eating them (as well as the mountains of bird food I put out). I keep a large flat stone clearly visible underneath the bird feeder, which the birds use to bash the shells of snails open with, thus enabling them to get to the juicy snack inside. (As an aside, the new ‘Squirrel Buster’ bird feeder I’ve been using is fabulous. Great fun watching the squirrels get frustrated by not being able to get at the seed, which they can see the birds ARE able to get at!)
I’ve been keeping my tiny pond as healthy and happy as possible, so it’s well stocked with frogs and newts. They are happy to gobble up slugs so are helping to keep the numbers down. I planted a sacrificial Hosta near the pond, which attracts slugs and snails to that area, making it as easy as possible for the frogs to get them

In the middle of May I noticed a huge number of blackfly covering the tender new stems of my Sambucus Nigra. I had the dregs of a tube of French Black Soap, ‘Savon Noir Liquide’, which I mixed with water and sprayed on the culprits, hoping I wouldn’t have to resort to chemical measures, but fearing I’d left it so late that I might need to. A day or two later I was delighted to see that the blackfly were dead on the stems, and that several lime green caterpillars were merrily munching them, without touching my plant! So not only did I get rid of the problem without the use of chemicals, but the next generation of butterflies were fed too.

On that note, we all want to ensure our plants aren’t damaged by aphids and other bugs, but please, PLEASE remember to be responsible when using any sort of chemical spray. Only use them when conditions are very calm, so that the spray won’t be carried on the wind and potentially kill beneficial insects too, such as ladybirds and bees.

As a final note, let me remind you that we have some fabulous summer stock in the shop and vintage shed. I found a couple of new suppliers at a recent trade show, so you’ll see some interesting new pieces in both buildings. Swing by and take a look!

I hope you have a lovely month.

Kind regards

Karen

Below this you’ll find both Alex and Sally’s informative pieces.

Indoor Gardening

This month I want to talk about one of my favourite and incredibly hardy house plants; Scindapsus. This climbing, evergreen genus is native to northeast Australia, southeast Asia and some Pacific islands. I always try to rotate the varieties we have in the garden centre, including ‘aureum’, ‘n’joy’, ‘marble queen’ and my favourite ‘pictus’. They will happily scramble up a moss pole, clinging to it with their aerial roots as they naturally would do on trees in the rainforest. They are equally happy tumbling down off a shelf or trailing along a surface making them a really versatile plant. My own home is full of scindapsus aureum, able to put up with the shadiest corners and my neglectful watering habits!

Alex

Garden jobs

It’s the start of summer, and a lovely month in the garden. Here are some things to be getting on with in those long evenings and sunny days.

2 key jobs this month

1. The first is multiple advice - feed, weed, stake and water! Regular attention to the basic jobs will help things to look their best for a long time ahead.

2. Now the soil is warm, sow and plant annual crops and flowers - there is such a fantastic choice of summer bedding plants, and lots of shrubs and herbaceous perennials are happy to be planted now too, for immediate impact and to look forward to later in the year.

General garden maintenance

Cut back early flowering perennials such as Geranium phaem, Brunnera, Tellima, Pulmonaria and others hard to the ground once the flowers have gone over, and you will soon have fresh new leaves. Water well and it won't be long before new growth appears.
It's not too late to stake tall herbaceous plants - do it now before delphiniums, lilies, and peonies lean too far with the weight of their blooms, especially after heavy rainfall. If you can't fit a specific support in place, bamboo canes, cut to size, and string will do the job well.
Keep on top of weeds. Pulling out or hoeing annual weeds while they are small is well worth it. On a hot day you can leave them and they will wither on top of the soil. Perennial weeds are another matter, and must be removed completely, with nothing left of the root. Alternatively use a glyphosate gel or spray to treat invasive weeds such as bindweed and ground elder, being careful to avoid drift onto garden plants.
Dead-head and cut back oriental poppies after flowering. Cutting them close to ground level will stimulate new foliage.
Carry on tying in new shoots on climbing plants as they grow - plants such as honeysuckle and clematis. Use Soft-Tie or string onto trellis or wires.
As soon as your sweet peas start to flower, keep picking them to encourage more blooms.

Container gardening

Continue planting summer containers - there are lots of annuals to choose from, or why not use some perennials which will come up year after year.
As I’ve mentioned in recent months, there are lots of edibles which can be grown in containers - fruit trees, soft fruit, herbs and vegetables. You’ll need to keep them watered, but it’ll be worth it for the bounty you will harvest later.

Pruning

Trim topiary, to keep it looking smart and to maintain the shape. Choose a cloudy day so that the leaves don't go brown with leaf scorch, and remember to feed and water afterwards.
Now is the time to prune late winter and spring flowering shrubs such as flowering currants and forsythia. Cut a few stems down to ground level, and the remaining to a healthy new shoot. Next year's flowers will develop on the new growth.
Cut out stems of variegated plants such as Euonymus and Elaeagnus which have reverted.
Prune out overcrowded or dead stems of evergreen Clematis such as Clematis armandii after it has finished flowering to maintain a good shape.

Planting

Fill gaps in the border with plants which will perform in the next few months. Planted well, they will establish happily.
Fill gaps with shrubs or perennials, or add a splash of colour with some annual bedding.
There are lots of seeds which can still be sown - sunflowers, nigella, nasturtiums, calendula - why not have a go!

Watering and feeding

Watering - be aware of the plants which need more water, including those recently planted, young vegetables and plants in containers. If we experience drought conditions, remember that it's much better to really soak plants a couple of times a week than to spray a little water everywhere each day. Small amounts of water encourage roots to come to the surface which makes plants even more vulnerable in dry conditions, so, always make sure water soaks right down to the deeper roots.
All new compost has sufficient nutrients to feed plants for up to 6 weeks, but thereafter you should get into a routine of feeding when you water. This is especially important for plants in containers, which can't send their roots further into the soil. Very old bottles of fertiliser may not have the necessary oomph, so treat the garden to a good fertiliser and your plants will perform much better.

Fruit and vegetables

Pinch out side shoots on tomatoes, so that you only have one main growing stem. A few varieties, such as 'Totem', don't need this treatment. Once the first truss of tomatoes has formed, start feeding with Tomorite or similar high potash feed.
Avoid using insecticides on crops when they are in flower.
Water potatoes well if the weather is dry. Early potatoes should be ready to harvest soon. Look out for the first flowers, and once they have opened, your spuds should be ready.
Runner beans and climbing French beans can be sown or planted outside, as well as squash, courgettes and sweet corn. Leeks should be planted out when they are pencil thick.
Sow winter cabbage seeds now as they require a long growing season.
Radish, swiss chard, salad crops, peas - now’s the time to sow lots directly outside.
Blueberries and cranberries growing in pots need to be kept moist at all times, preferably with collected rainwater.
Tie in raspberry and blackberry canes.
Start to prune plum and cherry trees.
Watch out for the June drop which is the process of fruit trees naturally shedding surplus amounts of fruit. You should remove any damaged or misshapen fruit, and if there is a lot of fruit remaining after the natural fall, remove some more by hand. What's left will be better quality and the tree will have more energy.

Herbs

Herbs remain a very popular group of plants, not surprisingly as they generally look and taste fabulous!
Try to give herbs the conditions they require: sunny spots for Mediterranean type herbs such as rosemary, thyme, sage and lavender; green leafy herbs such as mint, parsley, and coriander will be happy in semi shade.
When harvesting herbs, always cut a sprig or stem and then strip the leaves off to use them. This way, the plant will reshoot from where it's been cut. If you simply strip leaves off the plant, you will have brown dying stems and an unsightly plant!
Some herbs such as coriander, basil, rocket, borage and parsley can be grown from seed in successive sowings, ensuring that as one crop goes to seed, the next is supplying fresh green foliage.
Cutting some herbs such as mint, rocket, coriander to the ground will prompt fresh growth to extend the harvesting season.
Remember too that herb flowers encourage beneficial insects into the garden. The flowers are normally edible, and can add lovely colour and flavour to salads etc.

Lawns

It's best to mow the lawn at least once, preferably twice a week at this time of year. The less grass removed at each cut, the healthier the grass will be. If we hit a dry spell, reduce the frequency of cutting and raise the mowing height.
Recently laid or sown lawns should be watered regularly in dry periods.

Pests and diseases

Mildew - some plants are particularly susceptible to mildew such as Pulmonaria, roses and honeysuckle. Remove and dispose of all affected leaves and stems. Improve watering, feeding, and, if possible, air circulation around the plant. If necessary, treat with an appropriate fungicide.
Protect vulnerable plants from slugs and snails. Dawn and dusk outings wearing gloves and carrying a bucket, and then dousing the collected molluscs with salt, can reduce the populations dramatically. Slug pellets or bait should be used sparingly - follow the instructions on the pack. Using a straw mulch such as Strulch, will deter slugs and snails.
Keep an eye out for aphid infestations - it's much easier to control if caught early. Squish them, or use an insecticide. Always use sprays carefully, in the evening when fewer beneficial insects are active, and choose a time when there isn't a breeze.
Bright red lily beetle and bronze/green striped rosemary beetle can do a lot of damage in a short space of time, so keep an eye out for them. Provado is the only pesticide recommended by the RHS as effective against these bugs. Read the instructions before using on edible crops.

Wildlife

Birds need constant supplies of food and water as they raise their young, so keep feeders and bird baths topped up.
Give birdbaths a regular scrub to prevent the spread of disease.
Don't trim hedges or prune shrubs until you are sure any bird nests are empty.
Vary the length of grass around the garden to encourage different groups of wildlife: birds will find insects if the grass is short, longer grass may allow bee friendly lawn weeds such as clover to flower.

Take time to enjoy your garden or balcony, getting jobs done but also sitting and relaxing in your outside space as we move into the summer months.

Sally