March Newsletter 2017

I’d like to start this month by introducing two new members of the team, Martyna and David. As you know, Alex is starting his own business and so is leaving us, but we are delighted that we have found such wonderful new recruits. Martyna will be taking over care of the house plant area, and David will predominantly be working in the outside plant area. Please extend a warm welcome to them when you’re next in.

February has been such a bizarre mix of bitterly cold and balmily warm that I really don’t know what to expect in March! There are obvious signs of spring all around – have you noticed the buds on many of the trees? – and there’s plenty of growth from the ground too, with herbaceous perennials making an appearance next to the spring bulbs. I’m itching to find time to get out into my garden and start work. As you’ll see in Sally’s ‘garden tasks’ section below, there’s a lot to be done this month. It can be a bit daunting, but it really is worth getting on top of things now, so that you’re not playing catch up for the rest of the season.

Here, the centre is filling up nicely after the leaner months. The first of the year’s larger shrubs and trees have arrived, including bamboos, olives, Photinia, Nandina, and Viburnum tinus, to name but a few.

Some other plant highlights ….

• Spring bulbs: growing in pots, ready to plant out. Tulips, muscari, fritillaria, scilla, lily of the valley and bluebell, are just some of them. So, if you forgot to plant bulbs last year, or need to add to those already planted, we have what you need.
• Hellebores: simply stunning this year, and in a really good range of colours. There are some big chunky plants available for instant impact. The Hellebore is Sally’s Plant of the Month, and you can really understand why when you see these beauties.
• Herbs: currently we have rosemary, thyme, lavender, mint, parsley, sage, oregano and chives, but the range will increase as the weather warms up.
• Camellias: looking absolutely wonderful, all sporting flowers and full fat buds. Come and see the large white ones, which are priced incredibly competitively. This is a brilliant shrub if you have a shadier spot that needs a lift, but do remember to use ericaceous compost in the planting hole.
• Magnolias: really fabulous - both stellata and soulangeana varieties. We have them in a range of sizes and colours.
• David Austin Roses: both shrub roses and climbers are now in, and it’s well worth getting them in as soon as you can.
• Clematis Armandii: along with other varieties of evergreen Clematis. They will all start to flower very soon, and the scent they produce is gorgeous.
• Fruit trees/soft fruit: trees and bushes are now in.

It’s still too early for ready-grown vegetable plants (though if it warms up, we should start getting them in towards the end of the month), but we have a good range of seeds ready to plant now – herbs, vegetables and flowers – along with all the equipment you need to successfully ‘grow your own’, from propagators to plant labels to seed compost. All to be found in the main shop.

This time last year I had a bit of a soap box moment, and explained why I try to buy British wherever possible, even if it does mean paying slightly higher prices. I am absolutely delighted to say that whilst most of our competitors (who buy the bulk of their stock in Europe) have now had to increase their prices (sometimes dramatically) post-Brexit, here at Alleyn Park we are holding last year’s prices on almost everything.

(For anyone who didn’t see my newsletter at this time last year, I’ve pulled out the relevant portion and inserted it below (in Italics). For those who’ve already read it, skip to the next bit!)

We pride ourselves in supporting small UK growers, often family run: all of our vegetables, fruit and herbaceous perennials (as well as most of our shrubs, trees and climbers), are sourced from such growers. I feel passionate about supporting these nurseries, and have been very concerned over the last few years to see many small growers having to close their businesses. There are a number of reasons for this, but it ’s mainly been due to the intense pressure they experience from competition in Europe, where plants are grown in massive greenhouses, manned by robots, and therefore sold at a price our UK growers can ’t possibly compete with. Whilst I always endeavour to bring plants to you at the best possible price, I feel a strong moral responsibility to continue buying from the small UK independents, even if this means the price for the plants is higher. Apart from the ethical issue, the plants are almost always better quality, and more likely to thrive longer term in your garden. You may be able to find cheaper plants (especially if you buy from the likes of Homebase or B&Q, where they have the buying power to screw the prices down even further), but I hope you agree that paying a few pence more for better quality plants, grown in the UK by people who care, is money well spent.

Last but not least, I want to remind you that we are now rolling out the new paperless reward voucher system. If we have an email address for you, you’ll get notification that your reward is ready and what its value is. All you need to do is remember to bring your Reward Card with you on your next visit, and when it is swiped at the till we will get a message on screen telling us how much to take off your total spend. If you don’t use email, or we don’t have your email address, you’ll get a nice surprise J

I’ll pass over to Sally now, but I hope that this finds you as eager to get out and start work on your garden as I am. The team and I look forward to welcoming you back at the garden centre very soon.

Warmest regards

Karen

PS In case of further cold snaps, we have fleece to protect your plants, and firewood to warm your cockles!

Garden jobs

Spring gets going this month, temperatures should start to rise and with the days lengthening, there’s more time to start getting things done outside. There should be lots of colour emerging all around.

Two top jobs for this month

1. Take a good look at your outside space and consider whether there has been enough structure over the winter months. March is a good time to plant evergreens, as the soil begins to warm up.

2. Clean up your outside space: clean paths, patios and balconies; get rid of weeds.

General garden maintenance

• Move evergreen and deciduous shrubs which are in the wrong place. Take as much of the rootball as possible, provide protection from cold winds, and keep well watered.
• A layer of mulch will make the garden look tidy, will save on weeding later in the year, and will help moisture retention. Weed the ground and make sure that the soil is warm and moist before you put the mulch down.
• Deadhead pansies and violas regularly and the show may well continue through spring into early summer.
• Hoe away early emerging weeds, as they will take hold rapidly if not dealt with swiftly.
• Cut back ornamental grasses and other perennials left for winter interest to make room for new growth.
• Cut old leaves off hellebores to expose the flowers and eliminate disease such as leaf spot. See this month’s Plant focus below…
• Deadhead daffodils and other spring bulbs as the flowers fade, but let the leaves die down as this is important for flower production next year. Drench the leaves with a foliar feed to bulk up the bulb ready for next year.
• Dig in horse manure or good compost to beds prior to planting, and as a top dressing.
• Improve drainage in heavy soils by digging in organic matter.
• As herbaceous perennials start to emerge, protect them from slugs and snails.
• Get plant supports in place around taller plants so that plants grow up through them.
• Clear your pond of accumulated muck at the bottom in readiness for the frog fiesta!
• Make sure you have your essential range of tools for the season ahead.

Container gardening

• Container dwelling plants benefit from being repotted into a slightly bigger pot each year. If this isn’t feasible, scrape off the top layer and replace with fresh compost. Finish off with a mulch of fine horticultural grit to help deter slugs and snails.
• Top up raised beds with fresh compost or topsoil.

Pruning

• Roses: Early spring is the right time to prune shrub and patio roses, before the leaves appear. The aim is to create a strong open framework which allows good airflow and helps prevent fungal disease. First, remove any dead or diseased stems, and then cut some of the oldest stems right down to the ground. The remaining stems should be cut down by between a quarter and half, with a view to achieving a well balanced shape when the plant grows again. Always make a slanting cut just above an outward-facing bud, sloping away from the bud. After pruning, water well; apply a granular rose fertiliser and a layer of mulch. The mulch will replace nutrients and help prevent the recurrence of blackspot.
• Shrubs grown for the colour of young stems (such as Cornus, Salix (willow) and some Eucalyptus) should be cut back hard to allow stems to grow for next winter. Some schools of thought say that you should leave a proportion of stems each year to allow early leaf growth to support the plant.
• Summer flowering shrubs that flower on the new wood later in the year such as Buddlleja can be cut right back. Keep the woody prunings to use as plant supports around the garden.
• Prune overgrown climbers before they start fully into growth. Prune back to just above visible buds, and remove dead wood. Honeysuckles, ivies, winter jasmines and other vigorous plants can be cut hard back.
• Prune early flowering clematis once the flowers are finished and before they start active growth. See our Clematis care notes.
• Hydrangeas can be pruned back to the first set of strong buds below last years faded flowers. Also remove a few of the oldest stems at the base.

After pruning always apply a granular fertiliser or mulch around the base of the plant.

Planting

• Plan areas for new planting this year, perhaps a new vegetable area, a rejuvenated herbaceous border or a cheerful patch of hardy annuals such as cosmos, poached egg plants, larkspur, poppies or nasturtiums - the possibilities are endless!
• Shrubs, climbers, roses, herbaceous perennials – March is a good time to plant many things.
• Containerised trees can be planted at any time of year, as long as they are cared for, but putting them in when they are dormant is preferable. Support newly planted trees with a tree stake.
• Note when planting potted roses that you may lose a lot of compost because the roots haven't filled the pot out yet. Don't worry, just use the loose compost in the planting hole.
• If ground is waterlogged, hold off planting new plants until it's dried out a bit. Keeping them in their pots for a while is fine.

Growing from seed

• Most seeds are easy to germinate if they have the right combination of water, air, light/dark and warmth. Use good quality seeds, clean equipment and specialised seed compost and read the notes on the seed pack to understand what’s needed.
• Always label trays and pots of seedlings. Get the labels ready before you start, especially if sowing more than one type, to avoid muddling them up!
• Use seed compost, which is low in nutrients and a fine consistency. You may find it easier to sow directly into modules, or root trainers, especially for plants which don't like having their roots disturbed.
• Some herbs and vegetables can be grown in succession, to prolong the harvesting season. Spinach, salad crops, coriander can be sown several times, 2 or 3 weeks apart. Leave enough space to do this.
• Hardy annuals are best sown in informal drifts, in ground which isn’t too rich - don’t add manure or garden compost because you’ll end up with lots of soft growth and few flowers. Prepare the ground by forking over, applying a light dressing of fertiliser and raking to a fine tilth, before sowing the seeds. The only rule is to sow taller varieties such as Bishops flower (Ammi majus) or cosmos at the back and shorter ones such as dainty poached egg flower (Limnanthes douglasii) at the front of borders. Plant in drills to make it easier to identify plants from weeds later on. Follow the packet instructions for thinning out, and look forward to a lovely splash of colour through the summer.

Fruit and vegetables

• Plant apple, pear, cherry plum and other fruit trees. Fruit trees should have flowers pinched out in the first year to divert the energy into creating a good root system instead of producing fruit.
• Plant soft fruit bushes: currants, blueberries, blackberries, gooseberries, raspberries will provide sweet crops later in the year.
• Prune autumn fruiting raspberry canes down to encourage new canes.
• Feed and mulch fruit trees and shrubs.
•  Prepare ground for vegetable growing by removing weeds and forking in fresh compost.  Cover it with black plastic if you want to warm it up for early sowing/planting.

Lawns

• Grass will begin growing this month. Set the blades at a high level for the first few cuts and ensure you dispose of all clippings so that air, rain and fertiliser can penetrate the newly cut turf.
• Repair any bare patches and tidy the edges to get off to a good start.
• Apply a layer of lawn dressing or a spring fertiliser to nourish and rejuvenate your lawn.
• March is a good month to lay new turf.
• If you want to grow a lawn from seed, do the preparatory work now so that the ground can settle before sowing later on.

Protect against frost

• We may have cold, frosty nights through March and April, so protect young plants if low temperatures are forecast. Cloches, fleece, or cut down plastic bottles can provide cover.
• If possible, protect fruit blossom with fleece if frost threatens.
• Tender herbs can be kept inside on a windowsill in the sun, and placed or planted outside when the temperatures are kinder.

Pests and disease

• Young plant growth is vulnerable to slugs and snails. Protect with a sparse scattering of slug pellets or bait, a line of coarse sand, copper rings or tape, or slug traps baited with beer. A mulch of bark or strulch around precious plants may help to deter slugs and snails.
• Look out for lily beetle, vine weevil and other pests. Keep an eye out for aphid attacks. Broad beans, which are one of the earlier crops to sow, are particularly susceptible to black fly. It’s too early for aphid predators such as ladybirds to be doing their job, so treat with an appropriate spray insecticide, checking the label for food safety.

Wildlife

• Birds are still in need of food and water. Keep the feeders full and a fresh supply of water, in view of the house so that you can enjoy them.
• Birds will start looking for nest sites, so be aware of them when pruning hedges and shrubs.
• Encourage other wildlife into your garden to help manage the pest populations. Leave some wood for beetles to nest in, and think about a small pond to encourage frogs, both of whom enjoy eating slugs!
• Plant bee and butterfly friendly plants to encourage pollinators into the garden in the coming months.

Plant focus - Hellebore

Hellebore are perennial plants, with a long flowering period though winter and spring. In a vast range of flower colours from white, through pinks to the darkest purple/black, many are also valued for their attractive, architectural evergreen leaves.

They prefer to grow in dappled shade although many will thrive in deep shade or in a sunnier position, in a rich but well drained soil. They can be planted out in the garden, grown as a container specimen, or used as part of a mixed winter container. Feed container grown Hellebore with a balanced liquid fertiliser, and mulch garden grown plants annually in autumn with leaf mould or other organic matter. Water during dry spells.

Cut the old leaves back in late winter or early spring to enjoy the emerging flowers and to allow pollinators to reach the flowers more easily. This will also remove any diseased foliage which may harbour hellebore leaf spot (an unsightly fungal disease).

Hellebore will often self-seed, and can be divided by division after flowering in spring, or in the autumn.

Finally

I hope you’re now filled with inspiration and enthusiasm for the season ahead!

Sally